Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Precision layering

There are a few labels that bring out the nerd in the male clothing consumer. Stone Island springs to mind. Maharishi is another, as is Engineered Garments.

Like Manrepeller-style clothes, this is the sort of stuff that leaves most birds wondering what the hell Him-indoors is wittering on about; three kinds of weave in a wool blazer, single needle stitching on a shirt, special stitches around the neck to stop it from stretching.. Don't get me wrong, it's a wonderful thing to hear a dude bang on about threads.

Engineered Garments work with heritage fabrics (Daiki Suzuki has a long standing partnership with Woolrich), heritage and military clothing (Suzuki has a huge vintage collection) with a relevant modern take for Today's Man regardless of age.

I'm digging this collection for FW16. The tones and colours, the textures, the attitude and the beard.




Friday, December 4, 2015

Mr Men shoes

I've always loved the chunkiness of the shoes the Mr Men wear.  The reliability of their brogues make them seem like a friendly uncle - even if they are round and red and shouting at the tops of their voices, or blue and grouchy, or breaking stuff left right and center.  They generally wear a solid shoe.

Grenson shoes have more than a touch of the Mr Man reliability about them. Hand-made and slightly eccentric with a solid sole and some exaggerated details they're dependable and timeless.

Very British stuff.






Thursday, November 5, 2015

You say potatoes

For me John Galliano's arrival at Maison Margiela an unexpected move. I had heard he'd done some work (post-rehab and away from the media's glare) at Oscar de la Renta and it seemed fitting that perhaps he'd take over the house when the man himself retired (or passed on) but it didn't happen and suddenly Galliano, possibly one of the best known fashion designers in the world was designing for a house that had built its name through anonymity.

An image I saw in an article about pagan parties in Mexico caught my eye and brought to mind the image of the girl from the Maison Margiela Couture Autumn/Winter 2015 show. I hope Galliano is able to remain stable at Margiela. It's certainly not as giant as Dior (is this where Elbaz will move next, post Simons?) but very few brands are. 

I was captivated by the image of the blonde model in the sack cloth dress from the couture show. It's like Essence of Galliano right there. He is one of the few, McQueen also was in this realm, who's able to turn peasant cloth in to clothes fit for some ethereal princess. From the dirt to the stars.