Blow's final death

I've been reading about the late Isabella Blow (Isabella Blow by Martina Rink), a fashion champion and tragic figure.  It's a book of farewell letters and memories written by friends and family.  Some of them are beautiful and touching, some smack a bit of guilt for not doing more or being there when the time came, I suppose that's understandable, we all wish we'd done more when it's too late.

As per her dramatic approach to life so it was with death, Blow had attempted to commit suicide previously but without "success" (she jumped off a bridge clad in Prada) until finally she drank weed-killer and that did it.

She sounds like an absolute riot, really naughty and fun.  As one of the book's contributors asks "who could take themselves seriously with a lobster on their head?".

The most haunting image from the book is "Isabella Blow" a piece by Noble and Webster, so macabre, created from dead things - including ravens from The Tower of London - it's a fitting tribute to a lady whose life seems to have been always pointing determinedly towards death.  What a loss to the world.

The Master, indeed

I recently saw Paul Thomas Anderson's latest, The Master, and while I liked rather than loved it, there were three things that have really stuck with me; Joaquin Pheonix's wardrobe, his performance and the scenes of the wake of a ship that were interspersed throughout the film.

As a veteran of the Navy following World War II Pheonix is a drifter, and alcoholic, who falls in with a spiritual leader / founder of a cult that isn't Scientology played by Phillip Seymour Hoffman.  In the same way that Pheonix drifts, his clothes appear to swim around his body, they fit him but they billow perfectly. 

Congratulations to the masterful Mark Bridges (Costume Designers on all of Anderson's films to date), while some of the Boogie Nights outfits will go down as classics, this wardrobe really haunts me.

Queen Bee

At last, something to get excited about - I really tried to be impressed with the Hedi Slimane / Saint Laurent collection but it just all felt a bit obvious and stuck in the 70s - so here's someone who is doing a House's name proud.  Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen. 

Wholly different scenario I know but Burton is a real talent, a real designer.  She has a feminine style yet manages to combine her touch almost seamlessly with McQueen's romantic and harder edge.  I know they worked together for years before his death so it makes sense that she knew his hand and she really does manage to keep his spirit alive through her collections. 

The hour-glass silhouette, the sexy corsets, the opulent fabrics, the gothic with the whimsical chiffon frocks with the sci-fi suiting, it all came together and it worked.

Fashion nirvana

One wouldn't normally neccessarily associate grunge with Dries van Noten but this season's stand out collection proves that one must never say never.

Combining classic grunge style; plaid shirts (in taffeta and organza), the oversize grey (cashmere) sweater, the centre parting on the hair with van Noten's labour intensive and hugely expensive fabrics, the perfect red lips, sex-kitten heels, this was a perfectly finished and totally covetable Haute Grunge wardrobe. 

His signature clashing yet complimenting fabric combinations never looked so right.  Makes you wonder why he hasn't done this sort of thing before.

The Sicily season

I'm not a huge fan of Dolce and Gabbana, I find its style a little too obvious and literal sometimes (but I would never say no to a corset dress - they are beautifully made inside and out - a little tarty but that can be a great thing for the right moment).

And so off we go to Sicily this season.  I'm not sure how I feel about the frescoes and painterly prints but the basket work is quite something, including totally unwearable unless you're Lady Gaga on a casual day.  The stripes are great; bold and strong and I really like the "sack cloth" pieces, so rustic!

The thing that Dolce and Gabbana does so well is to celebrate the very essence of Italy.  Looking at their shows and campaigns you're transported in to their world and yes it's full of beautiful people wearing crazily beautiful clothes but they do it so perfectly (season in, season out) that you know where you are.  Italy.  Dolce and Gabbana.

Who doesn't wear the trousers?

A collection consisting entirely of dresses could sound like it's going to be repetitive and totally impractical.

However Tomas Maier created a collection of 33 looks, each one a dress, and each one as different and wearable as the last.

Ranging from what might be the ultimate Little Black Dress (see below) to very wearable daytime looks, the very sexy but demure fringed frock and pieces that exemplified craftmanship and attention to detail.  This was a masterclass in design.

Long Live The Queen!

I am a huge fan of Jil Sander and as I've written about previously, a huge admirer of her +J collection for Uniqlo which sadly ended late last year.  That partnership meant that her clean lines and technical prowess were available for high street prices. 

The end of that partnership however, signalled that Jil Sander was fully back at the helm of her own ship.

Spring/Summer 2013 at Jil Sander provides a balanced, considered, delicious wardrobe for the working woman.  The elegantly bell-shaped (sleeveless) tunic tops and dresses are a total winner giving a delicate shape to the silhouette.  The tight pencil skirt with voluminous jacket is sexy but still prim.  The fabrics are clean and sculptural with pops of bright in a palette of navy, burgundy, white and black.  Divine!

Lust, Caution. #2

Again it's Chloe.  This time it's shoes (although the bags are beautiful too of course).

Dusty rose pink / nude suede platform ballet pumps with an ankle strap. Perfection when set against these cuffed pillarbox red trousers. 

They might be shoes that only work in a photo however as I've toyed with this style before and walking any distance proved tricky.  Harder than in 5" heels believe it or not.  However I am noting the colour palette here, it's one to copy.

Somewhere over the rainbow

O to the M to the G.

Gucci Spring/Summer 2013.

Advanced colour blocking.

Tunics and trousers, kaftans, embellishment and frills.

Luxe bohemia.

Je love.

That is all.

The Talented Mr Moralioğlu

Erdem does ladylike like no-one else.  His designs are sweet, elegant, thoughtful, tasteful, sexy and modern.. I could go on.  Here are my favourite looks from this season's collection - I had to edit it down to five.

I also loved the gauzy overlay used as a theme in some of the looks, I'm sure it's not meant to but it sort of reminded me of 1950s housewife coats and I really dug that.

The palette of acid pastels is really exciting and I am looking forward to seeing it hang in the stores - and I wish from my shoulders.

 

A cool drink of (smart) water

In 90 degree heat these clear calm lines are a balm to my eye.  Harkening back to the days of the late Carolyn Bessette Kennedy's ice cool reign over New York's style circles this Calvin Klein collection is a minimalists dream.

The mix of fabrics sung in this largely monochrome collection by Francisco Costa, and it was a love song to the female form; sexy but not in your face, delicate but not for the wall flower, strong but never over powering.  Clever stuff.

The Eighties are back (again)

Or at least they are according to Marc by Marc Jacobs.

I remember wearing big socks pushed down like this, I remember wanting to look like Keren from Bananarama, I remember wishing I was old enough to sneak in to London nightclubs like Patsy Kensit or Amanda de Cadanet did (aged 15 or something).

It doesn't seem that long ago that I experienced all those things but I guess in fashion terms it's aons past so here it is, the early 80s re-styled, re-mixed and re-packaged for a new generation of Captain Sensibles and Blitz Kids wannabees.